Prague - Part 2

Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday Steve had all day meetings so we fell into a routine whereby every night I would 'study up' on what I wanted to see the next day, Steve would leave for his meetings around 8 a.m. and then I would go to the hotel breakfast buffet (which was really nice for a hotel) and then 'layer on' to stay warm and head out on my own. I would stop by the Concierge (who was the only one at the hotel that spoke English) and talk to him about my plans and the routes I had figured out....he would comment and was really intrigued on many of the things I picked out and he would offer alternative suggestions on some of my routes. Primarily I used the Metro and Tram (the mass transit is impressive), plus A LOT of walking which I loved). Since it got dark so early there (around 4 p.m.) I would wrap up my sightseeing about 2:30 or so, head back to the hotel and take a really hot bath so I could warm up. The combination of cold weather (30-40 degrees) some rain and hours of walking on mostly cobblestone really took it's toll! Those afternoon baths were rejuvenating! Then Steve would come back around 5 and we would go to dinner or he would go to another meeting and I would stay in.

One thing I always have wanted to see is the very famous 'Infant of Prague'. I have always been fascinated with the details of him, his wardrobe, the pageantry of the parade and the history and how he has been treasured since 1556!!! Here is a really good link about him if you are not familiar:http://www.pragjesu.info/en/history_infant_jesus.htm

This picture is not one taken by mean; but shows the details....

So Monday I wanted to see the Infant and St. Nicholas Church. These two places were in the Mala Stranda area which has the most limited transportation and the Infant is at 'Our Lady of Victory' church. That is about all I knew. So when I mentioned to the Concierge I was going to take the Metro and walk he suggested I take Tram 22 and go 6 stops and I would be closer. I was up for that so I headed out to the tram station, just across the street from the hotel. I waited for a bit and no tram came so I waited a bit more and one stopped and I got on. It was like a sardine can but I did not care....I counted my stops while watching the hustle and bustle of activity on each and every stop. When we got to the 3rd stop everyone got off so I thought it was some kind of break and I just sat there. Then the conductor came out and said something loud and angry in Czech and waved his arms at me. I still sat there and a few minutes he came back and did the same so I figured he wanted me off his tram!!! So I got off and I was in the middle of nowhere - I have no freakin idea where I was, but I was not afraid or worried and it was raining a bit and cold so I just started walking towards where I thought was where I was suppose to be....after about 30 minutes I saw what looked to be a police station and a policeman talking to someone out front. I thought for sure the police would speak English and approached him and asked him and he said he did not speak any English however the guy he was talking to spoke excellent English and was very helpful to me. I told him where I was going (he had never seen the Infant) and said I was quite a ways away however told me where the next tram stop was and thought it was 4 or 5 stops from that point so I headed out that way. I made on to the tram and then counted more stops and saw a huge area that looked like a central point that I could regroup and figure out where I was going and I thought about getting off there but decided to wait one more stop and then walk back to that area. The Tram had to stop prior to the next stop as someone pushed the stop button so I decided to just get off as the walk back would be closer. So I stepped off and looked up and like Divine order this is what I was looking at:

This is the front of 'Our Lady of Victory' where the Infant is....is that not amazing that after my wrong tram, no English speaking assistance, vague directions and my lack of knowledge that the Tram doors would open and this is the sight I would see....was I not destined to this????? Later I realized I was on the wrong tram for the first ride - I was more careful after that.

So I opened the door and Mass had just started....there were only about 5 people beside me in the church and I quietly took a seat in the beautiful carved pew and enjoyed the pomp and circumstance of the Mass in Czech....

This picture does not do him justice; however when I looked around from my pew during Mass, look who was on my right looking down at me.....I think I heard angels sing!

After Mass I walked up to the Museum....3 stories up in the rotunda on old wooden steps and every step you took you were able to see beautiful pictures of the Infant and his incredible gowns.

Inside the Museum all his wardrobe are encased in glass with information on the dates they were made and who provided the funds to make them. They were made of the finest silk and golden threads....the lace was incredible. There was also a video on how the Carmelite nuns dress him and when they take their vows in front of him and also the pageantry of the parade. Wow, what a humbling experience and one that I will never forget (I went back 2 times while I was there).....anyway, from there on to my next stop to St. Nicholas Church, circa 1273. That was a walk from Our Lady but one I enjoyed and again all on cobblestone. Here is some great info on this beautiful church: http://www.prague.net/st-nicholas-church

These pictures do not due it justice and I loved the Baroque style and guild and marbles....

Since it was a Monday I had the whole church to myself for over a hour!!! A bit later a group of 5 year olds and their teacher came in. They sat in front of me and listened intently as their teacher talked to them and she would ask a question and all the children would point in the same direction and she would ask another and they would all point to another area, on and on. I have to tell you I was quite humbled in my art history being less than an average Czech 5 year old!

So beautiful......

Marble, frescoes, masterpiece artwork, what not to love???

After my visit at St. Nichols I walked over the St. Charles Bridge and back to the Christmas Markets and shopped around and looked around and then decided to have one of those good looking brats they cooked on the streets....

mmmmmm it was so good. By then it was well past 3 and I ventured back to the hotel to meet up with Steve. It was 'St Nicholas Day' for the children and we went into Old Town later in the evening and the tradition is for the young children to wear angel costumes or devil horns (kinda of like naughty or nice) and we watched the St. Nicholas performance and then stopped for dinner - Goulash for me and ribeye for Steve....we walked back to the metro station under the stars and listening to the Christmas music...so wonderfully magical. While Steve did some prep work for his next day and I planned out my Tuesday plans....I could get used to this!